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The Calimcail products are the very high end of what is available in the
market today for LARP weapons. Because they are so new and so different from
the current set of available LARP weapons, the following information may prove
to be of interest to you....
Contents:
1. Are these made the same way as Forgotten Dreams and EagleFlex?
2. What are the differences between Calimacil and the other product lines?
3. Are they durable?
4. Are they safe?
5. Why a heavier weapon?
6. Silver powder?
7. Standard maintenance?
8. Buy from the factory?
10. Standard weapon lengths?
11. Core material?
12. Full contact combat?
13. Custom paint? Customizing Calimacil Weapons?
14. Any recognition or acclaim?
15. Repairs to cuts
Q1: Are these products made in the same way that Forgotten Dreams and EagleFlex weapons are made?
A1: No. Calimcail weapons are created using an injection mold processes. The other product
lines are hand-made.
Q2: Are there any other differences between Calimacil and the other product lines?
A2: Yes. The material used to create the blade is a different material than the standard
foam sheets used by the other manufacturers. This complex, proprietary material
does not require an outer coating of any kind. The color is an integral part of the
injection process so the "paint" is actually part of the material
All of which means that these weapons are not really "latex" weapons at all!
They are the next generation of live action role playing weapons.
Q3: So are they durable?
A3: Oh, HECK yes!!! Since they are created by injection processing, the entire weapon is essentially
a single unit. There are no layers of primer, latex, paint, or sealant - so
the unit is FAR more stable than the traditional latex weapon. The Calimcail weapons
will not and in fact CAN not peel or separate. The colors are part of the material and
will last far longer than the color on a standard latex weapon.
Q4: Are they safe?
A4: Yes. These items are designed as LARP weapons.
Note, however, that these are not
"ultra-light" weapons, and therefore when you get smacked by one of these weapons
you will feel a bit more force. This is absolutely not an issue at standard LARP
levels of combat. This only becomes more of an issue when you are using these
weapons in a full contact combat.
The
Austin Bujinkan Tanemaki Dojo has used ultra-light katanas from Knighthawk
for the past several years, and immediately switched to the Calimacil Katana when
they saw it at A-Kon 18 in 2007. They vastly prefer the weight, the balance, the
longer and more realistic handle, the fabulous grip, and the fact that these
weapons can be used in full contact combat.
The members of the Dojo used these weapons in their demos at A-Kon 18, and in their
practices after the demos. They noted that when one is hit in full contact
mode, the recipient will definitely feel it, and a bruise was left on one person's
hand after it was hit very hard on bare skin. This is unlike the utra-lights which sting
for a moment or two, then it is as if nothing happened. Once again they noted that
this is only an issue in full contact combat when hitting bare skin.
Unlike the ultra-lights, the Calimacil weapons are made for thrusting. While not quite
as impact-free as the old style "squishy tips" used on the homemade boffers, the blades
get slightly thicker near the tip. This helps with both the balance of the blade and
with its safety. The tip is designed to stop at the eye socket; if you get hit in the eye
you'll feel it but your eye won't get gouged. Finally, the extra thickness helps distribute
the force of any blow, lessening the impact of each strike.
Q5: Why would I want a heavier weapon?
A5: Until now, LARP weapons have only come in two flavors: homemade boffers and factory
made ultra-lights. Here's a list of reasons
why factory made weapons are almost always far superior to homemade ones.
Now you have a third category to choose from: realistic reproductions.
The Calimacil line of products are designed to look as realistic as possible, and the
unbelievable amount of detail work on the hilts is only the tip of the realism iceberg.
The slightly heavier weight allows the user to parry a blow far more successfully
than an ultra-light.
It also provides the weapons with a balance similar to their real counterparts.
Once the user has adapted to the increased weight of the weapon, their speed will rival
that of when they used the ulta-lights.
And, of course, these are simply the best looking LARP weapons available anywhere in the world.
Q6: What is the silver powder on the blade? And why does it cover my fingers when I touch the blade?
A6: This is perfectly normal. The color of the blade is created by adding a silver agent
into the mold. This material is fused with the foam of the blade. This process leaves a
light residue behind. This residue will disappear in time, but the blade will retain its
silver/metal color.
If you wish, you can rinse the blade off to remove most of the silver residue.
Remember that as with ANY LARP weapon, the colors will eventually wear down with time
and use. These products are magnificent but they are still only foam! :)
Q7: What is the standard maintenance procedure for these products?
A7: Nothing. We do recommend that you keep the blade clean and free from dirt since
dirt, dust, and sand acts like sandpaper on ANY product.
Q8: Why not buy directly from the factory?
A8: You can, but you will still pay the same price AND you'll pay for shipping the item(s) from Canada.
Calimacil has a non-competition agreement with their distribution network, and.
they never offer specials on these items.
Q9: What are the standard lengths of the Calimacil weapons?
A9: The length of a weapon is measured from tip to pommel:
Short = 32 in, long = 37 in, bastard =42 in, two hand = 48 in, and ridiculous = 58".
Katana = 42 in, Wakizashi = 37 in and Tanto =28 in.
A few of their swords, like the Gladius, are also available in a 28 in length.
Q11: What are the cores made of?
A11: The standard core is a fiberglass rod. It is very durable and has minimal whip
at the shorter lengths.
Q12: Will these swords stand up to full contact combat, like in the SCA or Amtgard?
A12: The factory says that these weapons can stand up to "normal" combat.
Over the yeaers I have seen these used properly, and used like a baseball bat - which is BAD! NO! BAD USER!
I've never seen a Calimacil sword break from use, but I have heard of it
happening when the fighters were going ballistic on each other.
One last note: these products are NOT unbreakable, so if you try to bend one of
these blades over your knee, it will eventually snap if enough pressure is applied.
And remember, these swords are designed to be used against PEOPLE, not fence posts,
concrete bunkers, or steel tables. Be sure to read the first three
Lessons Learned, they are simply common sense rules
that apply to these swords as well as to other types of LARP weaponry.
Q13: Can I put a custom paint job on these swords?
A13: Yes. The factory provides a set of paints specifically designed to work with their
proprietary foam. They come in 20 ounce
plastic jars; which is 0.67 US fluid ounces. The available colors are:
Black
Blue (sky blue)
Bronze
Gold
Dragon green (metallic)
Red
Silver
Each model of weapon comes from the factory in either its standard color scheme or in black.
A model with a black hilt provides you the best opportunity to implement the customized
colors YOU want - and you don't have to worry about an existing paint job getting
in the way.
Also note that at this time any model ordered in black will need to be back ordered,
so such orders will incur a three to four week delay before being filled.
Here are the detailed instructions on
Customizing Calimacil Weapons.
Q14: Have these weapons gained any recognition or garnered any acclaim?
A14: Yes, the Calimacil line of products was presented at the
LARPY Awards
in 2006 and they won the award for
Best LARP Weapon (scroll to the bottom of this page).
Q15: How can I repair a cut to the foam on the blade?
A15: Let's say you struck the edge of a plate mail
greave or a
spaulder really hard
and cut the foam material of the blade.
You can simply glue the split edges back together using a soft colorless
contact glue - something like Krazy-Glue or a strong spray adhesive. BE SURE to only
use JUST enough glue to cover one side of the tear!
You can also use a Silicone II household glue; the version that comes in a
silver color blends best with the material of the blade.
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